France

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The Devil’s Hole

Published March 2, 2017 by pennyrandall

The Legend of the  Gouffre de Padirac, Lot, France.

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Legend tells of how either St Martin or St Peter (it varies) was wandering over the Causses plateau looking rather unsuccessfully for souls to save when he came across the Devil himself with a huge sack of sinners. Lucifer loves to brag, and in mockery of the saint proposed a challenge. Striking the ground with his foot, he opened up a huge chasm, and told the holy man he could have all the sinners’ souls if he could jump over it. The saint made the sign of the cross, leapt on his ass and jumped across the hole. It’s said the ass sprang so high that when it landed, it left the marks of its hoofs on a large stone that can still be seen today. Furious, the devil gave the sack of souls to the saint and headed back to hell through the hole he had made.

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In a limestone area more riddled with holes than a lorryload of Emmental, a cave has to be pretty special to stand out. And even though the prehistoric Picassos who left their mark in so many places round here left it well and truly alone, the Gouffre de Padirac still manages to draw thousands of people every year.

First and foremost, it’s big. Formed by the collapse of a great dome hollowed by an underground river, it’s 77 metres deep and 33 metres wide, and has to be one of the prime candidates for the World’s Largest Hole award. Standing at the bottom looking up is not unlike looking through the wrong end of a telescope, and standing at the top looking down will make you clutch the barrier until your knuckles turn white. The visit kicks off with either a trek down a tower of ten flights of steps or a couple of lift rides. Once you reach the bottom of the chasm, the visit is far from over: there’s a trek along a walkway over an underground river to a subterranean harbour where you’ll be taken half a kilometre by boat to a landing stage on the other side. (Be warned, this is a tremendously popular attraction and you may have to queue for the boats, as you may well also have to queue for entry at the start) Once here, a guide will take you to a fabulously turquoise subterranean lake with a series of winding natural dams, formed by calcite deposits. A staircase takes you up to another lake in the incredible “Great Dome Chamber,” large enough to fit two cathedrals the size of Notre Dame in Paris. The scale of the chamber is absolutely unbelievable; it rises 94 metres above the surface of the river and apparently there are only a few metres between its ceiling and the surface of the earth above it. Once through the chamber, it’s back to the river.

The visit lasts between 90 minutes and two hours and the temperature of the cave is 13 degrees so you may want to take a jumper. Padirac is only a few kilometres from the breathtaking sacred site of Rocamadour, and it’s easy to combine both in a day.

For more info about the Gouffre, visit the website at http://www.gouffre-de-padirac.com/

Life in Ruins Part VI – A Rock and a Hard Place.

Published May 4, 2012 by pennyrandall

THE RUINED CAVE DWELLINGS OF THE GROTTES DE JONAS

France’s Auvergne region is a wondrous land of extinct volcanoes and geological curiosities. I was lucky enough to spend a while there a few years back researching the weird and wonderful sights the area has to offer and these incredible cave dwellings near St Pierre Colamine are one of them.

Carved into a cliff of soft volcanic tufa, these seventy  rooms on five levels were begun by the Celts, became a monastery in the 10th century and  later served as a feudal stronghold, when knights from a nearby castle moved in and added a stone facade and tower.  With  its network of corridors and staircases, ovens, latrines, living quarters, stables, armoury and even hospice,  this was medieval high rise living par excellence.

One of the most evocative rooms is the feudal chapel, where  a series of ancient frescoes is remarkably well preserved. There are five of them: the denial of Peter, Jesus receiving the crown of thorns, the body of Jesus lowered from the cross, the discovery of the empty tomb and the Virgin Mary enthroned with the child Jesus on her lap.

Legend has it that a group of Templars found refuge here after the suppression of 1309, whether this is true or not, it eventually passed into the hands of the Knights Hospitallers and was finally abandoned in the 17th century.

The caves fell into disrepair, their interior was plundered – even lime scraped off the walls and used as fertiliser – and the higher, more sheltered rooms were used to house pigeons.

Restoration work was carried out in the 1950s and today, the site is a fascinating place to visit, to imagine life as it was lived by the monks and knights who made it their home so long ago, and to savour the unique  atmosphere of  this troglodyte ruin.